Polysorbate 20

olysorbate 20 (Tween 20) is a widely used non-ionic surfactant and solubilizer, especially suited for light fragrance oils and essential oils in water-based cosmetics.

INCI: Polysorbate 20
Other Name: Tween 20
Source: Sorbitol + lauric acid (often coconut-derived)
Type: Non-ionic solubilizer / mild surfactant
Appearance: Clear to pale yellow liquid
HLB: ~16.7 (high → very water-loving)

✅ Functions in Cosmetic Formulation

1. Solubilizer
   Disperses essential oils and fragrance oils into water

2. Surfactant (very mild)
   Adds gentle cleansing action

3. Emulsion stabilizer (secondary)
   Supports oil-in-water systems

4. Clarifying agent
   Helps produce clear toners, mists, and sprays

Typical Usage Levels
Toners / facial mists — 0.5–2%
Perfume sprays — 1–5%
Micellar water — 1–4%
Body sprays — 1–3%
Light cleansers — 1–4%
Solubilizing EO/FO — 1–10% (depends on oil load)

How to Use Polysorbate 20 Correctly
Solubilizing Essential Oils / Fragrance Oils
General ratio: 1 part oil : 2–4 parts Polysorbate 20

Example (Facial Mist):
Essential oil — 0.3 g
Polysorbate 20 — 0.6–1.2 g
Distilled water — q.s.

Method:

1. Mix Polysorbate 20 with the oil first

2. Stir until uniform

3. Slowly add to water with gentle mixing

4. Check clarity after 24 hours

🧴 Products That Commonly Use Polysorbate 20
Facial toners and hydrosol sprays
Body mists and perfumes
Aftershaves
Makeup setting sprays
Hair mists
Micellar cleansers

Common Problems & Solutions
Cloudy product — Too little PS20 → Increase solubilizer
Sticky feel — Overuse → Reduce %, blend with PS80
Separation — Incorrect ratio → Increase PS20
Irritation — EO too high → Reduce EO to ≤0.5%

👉 Pro Tip: Blending Polysorbate 20 and Polysorbate 80 often improves clarity and overall skin feel.

Safety & Stability
Safe for leave-on and rinse-off products
Non-ionic → compatible with most ingredients
Stable across pH 3–10
Not a preservative — water-based products must be preserved

Formulator Tips
✔️ Always test clarity after 24–48 hours
✔️ Use distilled water only
✔️ Keep essential oil and fragrance levels low in facial products