Polysorbate 80

Polysorbate 80 (Tween 80) is a very common non-ionic surfactant and solubilizer used in many cosmetic and personal care products.

INCI: Polysorbate 80
Other Name: Tween 80
Origin: Sorbitol + oleic acid (plant-derived)
Type: Non-ionic surfactant / solubilizer
Appearance: Amber, viscous liquid
HLB: ~15.0

✅ Functions in Cosmetics

1. Solubilizer
   Helps disperse fragrance oils and essential oils into water

2. Emulsifier (secondary)
   Supports oil-in-water emulsions

3. Surfactant
   Provides mild cleansing and boosts foam

4. Dispersant
   Ensures even distribution of actives, oils, and pigments

Typical Usage Levels
Solubilizing fragrance — 1–5%
Cleansers / shower gels — 1–4%
Toners / mists — 0.5–2%
Emulsions (supporting) — 0.5–3%
Bath oils (to rinse clean) — 5–15%

How to Use Polysorbate 80 Correctly
Solubilizing Fragrance or Essential Oils
Ratio: 1 part fragrance : 2–4 parts Polysorbate 80
Mix Polysorbate 80 into the oil first
Then add slowly to the water phase while stirring

Example:
Fragrance oil — 1 g
Polysorbate 80 — 2–4 g
Water — q.s.

🧴 Product Examples
Facial toners
Body mists
Shower gels
Micellar waters
Hair sprays
Cleansing oils (rinse-off)
Water-based perfume sprays

Common Formulation Issues
Cloudiness — Too little solubilizer → Increase Polysorbate 80
Stickiness — Overuse → Reduce %, combine with PS20
Irritation — High EO load → Lower fragrance %, patch test
Separation — Incorrect mixing order → Pre-mix oil + PS80

Note:
Many formulators blend Polysorbate 20 and Polysorbate 80 for improved clarity and better skin feel.

Safety & Stability
Generally non-irritating at normal use levels
Compatible with most preservatives
Stable across a wide pH range (3–10)
Not a preservative — proper preservation is still required

Professional Tips
✔️ Always test clarity after 24 hours
✔️ Use distilled or deionized water
✔️ Avoid excess essential oils (>1%) in leave-on products